joi, 10 septembrie 2020

GRETA GARBO: THE MYSTERY OF STYLE (album)

Drawing of Greta Garbo




GRETA GARBO THE MYSTERY OF STYLE : SUPERBE LIVRE DE PHOTOS

18 mai 2015


greta.garboFestival de Cannes oblige, le mois de mai est l’occasion rêvée pour parler de livres en rapport avec le cinéma… des livres dont je n’ai pas forcément l’occasion de vous parler le reste de l’année. Aujourd’hui, je vous propose donc une lecture frivole qui nous mènera sur les traces d’une des plus grandes stars du septième art : Greta Garbo. Rien que ça ! Et pour découvrir la grande icône du cinéma muet, rien de mieux qu’un beau livres aux photos somptueuses. C’est donc avec le livre de l’exposition Greta Garbo, the mystery of style que nous allons faire connaissance avec celle que l’on surnommait « la divine ».
Il y a quelques années, le musées Salvatore Ferragamo à Milan a décidé de consacrer une rétrospective événement à l’une de ses plus célèbres clientes : Greta Garbo. Elle était une icône de mode, une star planétaire, mais aussi une femme incroyablement photogénique. Autant de raisons de voir en elle un modèle pour les fans de mode. De très nombreux tenues ainsi que de multiples accessoires ayant appartenu à l’actrice ont ainsi été rassemblés pour la première fois dans une exposition fabuleuse.
Le livre que je présente aujourd’hui était le catalogue de l’exposition, mais il peut très bien être lu sans avoir vu l’exposition (moi-même je n’avais pas vu l’exposition de Milan, et malheureusement personne n’a eu la bonne idée de faire voyager cette exposition jusqu’à Paris !). Ce livre est une mine d’or en ce qui concerne les photos de l’actrice. Et s’il est vrai qu’il aborde en premier lieu la dimension « modesque » de Garbo, il faut dire qu’on en apprend aussi sur sa vie et sa carrière.
L’argument principal de ce livre, c’est de ressusciter le contexte historique de la vie de Garbo pour bien faire comprendre en quoi elle a été un modèle d’émancipation pour les femmes de son temps. Voilà une actrice adulée de tous, qui a participé à certains des plus grands films du cinéma muet tout en gardant son identité propre. Garbo est devenue un mythe de son vivant, à tel point que le premier film parlant dans lequel elle est apparue avait été annoncée sous l’accroche : « Garbo parle ! » Evénement historique pour le cinéma !
Au fil des pages et des photos, j’ai été frappée par la très grande modernité de ses tenues. Elle porte des vêtements au style sportif dans la vie de tous les jours, avec souvent un pantalon, ce qui était très novateur pour l’époque ! Et ce qui m’a séduit, ça a vraiment été cette opportunité de saisir, à travers le cas particulier d’une actrice de cinéma, le vent de changement et d’émancipation qui est survenu au milieu du XXe siècle.
Ce très beau livre ravira les fans de la star, ou même les fans de cinéma. Toutes les filles en mal de glamour auront aussi la chance de revivre l’âge d’or d’Hollywood. Pour les autres curieux, ce livre sera l’occasion d’un voyage dans le temps, instructif et fascinant. Il vous donnera peut-être aussi l’envie de lire une biographie de cette actrice unique à tous points de vue.
https://alivreouvert.net/2015/05/18/greta-garbo-the-mystery-of-style-superbe-livre-de-photos/

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Greta Garbo: Legend of Hollywood's Golden Age



Black and white photo of Greta Garbo
Greta Garbo / Arnold Genthe / Gelatin silver print, 1925  / National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution
The enigma and allure of Greta Garbo (1905–1990) was something she understood completely: “I am only an image, and that is all I can be to you.” The aura of Garbo’s star quality still radiates: “glamorous,” “mysterious,” “aloof,” and “enchanting” were words commonly used to describe her. And although she retired from movies more than six decades ago, at the age of thirty-six, Garbo remains a legend from Hollywood’s golden age.
Born Greta Gustafsson in Stockholm on September 18, 1905, the stagestruck adolescent won a scholarship to study at the city’s Royal Dramatic Theatre School. Here she met Sweden’s leading film director, Maurtiz Stiller, who became her mentor: first, he changed her name to “Greta Garbo,” and then, when MGM studio chief Louis B. Mayer offered him a contract to come to Hollywood, he brought his protégé along. Garbo and Stiller arrived in New York in 1925 and were introduced to photographer Arnold Genthe. Fascinated by Garbo’s eyes and by “what is behind that extraordinary forehead,” Genthe persuaded her to sit for a photo session that transformed her career. The results of this sitting (above), soon published in Vanity Fair magazine, convinced MGM that Garbo had a very special quality, and she was quickly signed to a contract.
Still only twenty, Garbo had a bit more baby fat than fit the MGM mold, teeth that needed straightening, and a mop of hair that was entirely too frizzy. The studio glamour doctors went to work, and her metamorphosis yielded results. In 1926 Garbo made an auspicious Hollywood debut in The Torrent, and the next year played opposite John Gilbert—then one of the screen’s most popular leading men—in what became a tremendous box-office hit, Flesh and the Devil. Their chemistry sizzled both on and off the set, and they would be paired in several other films, including Love (1927), A Woman of Affairs (1928), and Queen Christina (1933).
As the Los Angeles Times noted at the time, Garbo represented an “utterly different type” of movie star. Earlier stars such as Mary Pickford or Lillian Gish conveyed innocence; Colleen Moore and Gloria Swanson were prototypic Jazz Age flappers; Clara Bow had “It.” But all seemed dull and dated when the screen filled with Garbo’s lambent aloofness and sophistication. Her evanescent movie image was enhanced by the art of still photography, particularly the 4,000 photographs taken between 1929 and 1941 by MGM’s chief photographer, Clarence Sinclair Bull (his 1939 portrait of Garbo shown at right).
Theirs was a wonderfully simpatico relationship: “When the pose was to my liking,” Bull recalled, “I quickly adjusted the lights and made the picture. Garbo read my face out of the corner of her eye. . . . All I did was light the face and wait. And watch. [She was] the easiest of all stars to photograph, having no bad side and no bad angles. . . . She never seemed to tire of posing.” James Wong Howe, a leading MGM cinematographer, agreed with Bull on the ease of working with Garbo: “She was like a horse on the track—nothing, and then the bell goes, and something happens. When the camera started to roll, she started to come to life.” Fellow movie star Bette Davis described the Garbo magic as instinctive: “her mastery over the machine was pure witchcraft. . . . No one else\ so effectively worked in front of a camera.”
However masterful she appeared onscreen, however much she enjoyed the public face of her stardom—and there are indications that she did—the obsession of her personal life was solitude. Garbo the Star loved being worshiped on the silver screen and was said to be “crazy about pictures of herself.” Yet the increasingly private Garbo resented the fame she had worked so carefully to cultivate: “The story of my life,” she once said, “is about back entrances and side doors and secret elevators . . . so that people won’t bother you.”
MGM was not above using Garbo’s eccentricities for publicity: when she made her transition from silent to sound films in Anna Christie (1930), MGM trumpeted “Garbo Talks!”; in Ninotchka (1939), the marquees headlined “Garbo Laughs!” Among her movies in the thirties was Grand Hotel, which won the Best Picture Oscar in 1932; Anna Karenina, for which the New York Times called her the “first lady of the screen” in 1935;and Camille, where critics hailed “the sheer magic of her acting” in 1937. After the “cinematic champagne” and “sparkling satire” of Ninotchka, her final film was the 1941 disaster Two-Faced Woman, which was not only panned by critics but condemned by the National Legion of Decency for “impudently suggestive scenes, dialogue and situations; suggestive costumes.”
And what about that most-famous-of-all-Garboisms? She insisted that she never said “I want to be alone,” only that “I want to be left alone.” Perhaps the great irony of her life was that by trying to avoid publicity, she became one of the most publicized women in the world.
- Amy Henderson, Historian, National Portrait Galle


Drawing of Greta Garbo
Greta Garbo in “the Kiss” / Joseph Grant / India ink, pencil and crayon on paper. 1929 / National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution; gift of Carol Grubb and Jennifer Grant Castrup
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13 AOÛT 2020



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